Carnival dancer posing in the crowded streets of Valletta. — Choreographies at Republic Street

Coming from Germany, I am used to carnival being a mix of tradition and political satire. And to be fair, Malta has plenty of both. But visually it was a bit of a surprise to me.

Living cartoons

The floats here have a very distinct aesthetic. The massive papier-mâché figures are painted in bright, neon colours. It’s a specific style (highlighter-yellow, electric-pink and bright green) that I haven't seen anywhere else. It makes the whole parade look a little surreal, like a moving cartoon.

Neon colored dancers in a crowded street in Valletta. — Marching groups in neon costumes

We usually start our route by walking up the long ramp towards the Stock Exchange (Castille Place) alongside the parade. This is a great spot because the different groups still have enough breathing room here to show off their full choreography before they prepare for the tighter streets of Valletta.

Republic Street

But eventually we always end up in the madness of Republic Street. It is packed with parade groups and spectators and there were moments where we simply got stuck in the crowd. Massive speakers fixed to the tractors are blasting iconic 90s hits from the Spice Girls, Backstreet Boys or Britney Spears.

My personal highlight last year was the Ghostbusters group (Lion Hearts Carnival Company). Watching their performances at the busy corner of Republic Street and Triq San Gwann was just amazing. Remember we posted these in our stories our Instagram?

So many feathers

And then there are the costumes. Many groups were absolutely covered in feathers and sequins from head to toe. I heard from friends that these are all dance schools who spend the entire year fundraising and sewing every single bead by hand just for this weekend. They look incredible, like something out of Rio.

Floriana

If you want to enjoy the art without being pushed around, we found a great alternative: Floriana. A 2-3 minute walk from Tritons’ Fountain, many floats are parked up before or after their run. It is a good spot for photographers who want a clean shot without people in the frame.

History

By the way, the whole carnival tradition actually began in Birgu back in the 1530s. The Knights organised banquets and masquerades and threw tournaments — very different from the modern version we see today.

Nadur

For those looking for 'no-filter' political satire, you need to head to Gozo. The village of Nadur organises a darker version of carnival where creativity has no limits. It is basically a massive street party for adults who mock local scandals so hard that the best videos fill Maltese instagram for days. I would recommend to leave the kids at home for this one.

This year’s carnival will take place from 13th to 17th of February.

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Author: Bjorn

Carnival in Malta — Neon Colours and 90s Beats