Kalkara, "Fourth City" of the Grand Harbour

Kalkara Waterfront

In short: Kalkara

Things to Do
Marina walk • Esplora Museum • Rinella Beach • Sailing boats • Main square

What I do: I walk past Birgu to get here. I grab a 70-cent pastizzi and Lavazza coffee at Sphinx on the main square (cheapest breakfast with a view). And I'll sit on a bench near the water to watch the old people catch some fish.

Fisher boats in Kalkara

The government recently spent €6.5 million fixing up the promenade (which now looks beautiful and tidy)!

Kalkara’s waterfront is defined by traditional townhouses and it feels less commercial than in the Three Cities.

Archbishop Gonzi Square

Soon you reach the main square which is the heart of Kalkara. The square is just in front of the iconic St. Joseph Parish Church.

Map of our walking route from Birgu to Kalkara’s peninsula

The original church was destroyed by a World War II air raid in 1942. The current church was built in a grand Neo-classical style and was finished in 1952.

You can even see the silver cupola from the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens.

St. Joseph Parish Church

Right in front of the church they have left a classic red British telephone booth. I love this contrast of British tradition and Maltese architecture!

British phone booth at Archbishop Gonzi Square

The square is a perfect place for a break. You have Sphinx Pastizzeria, a simple local snacks place. A pastizzi (pea or ricotta cake) is only 70 cents! :D

And there is Crema di Crema next door. I usually have my creamy cappuccino here.

Kalkara Regatta

As you continue towards the tipping point of the peninsula, you pass by this green gate with the logo of the Kalkara Regatta Club, founded in 1957.

The club won the rowing regatta in the Grand Harbour, the "Aggregate Shield", seven times.

Kalkara Regatta Club entrance

Even if there is no race going on, check out the tiny bar right here at the docks. It’s nothing very fancy, but you can have a Cisk beer and sit by the water where the boat crews hang out.

Bighi Cot Lift

At the end of the marina you get to the Royal Naval Hospital Bighi (now the Esplora Science Centre). This building is the reason Malta was famously called "The Nurse of the Mediterranean".

It was the British Navy’s main hospital for over a century. Casualties from the Crimean War to World War II were treated here.

The historic Bighi Cot Lift

The iconic Bighi Cot Lift is an elevator built to transport injured sailors directly from the ships in the harbour up to the hospital wards.

Sunset from the top of the Bighi Cot Lift

Esplora Science Centre

Today, it can take you up to the Esplora Science Centre which includes a little section with uniforms and medicines used back in the days.

Villa Bighi

Next to the Esplora Science Centre is the beautiful Villa Bighi. Usually this building is closed to the public.

I was lucky to be here on a charity open day, the Christmas Bakes Marathon, when volunteers made christmas cakes and mulled wine to raise funds for Maltese children in need.

Villa Bighi

The view from the back terrace is pretty different than from Kalkara Waterfront. You have the opening of Rinella Bay (Kalkara’s sandy beach) around the corner and the Ricasoli East Breakwater infront.

View from Villa Bighi terrace

P.S.: If you are coming from Valletta, the easiest way to reach Kalkara is the ferry.

And if you want it authentic, you could go by gondola. Read my ferry guide for prices and boarding points.

Passenger coming off a gondola at Birgu waterfront

Author: Bjorn

Updated on 17/9/2026