Kalkara — The Authentic "Fourth City" of the Grand Harbour
Kalkara Waterfront
Most people who visit the "Three Cities" walk along the waterfronts of Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua. But if you cross Birgu and make it to the other side, you walk into a fourth, overlooked city — Kalkara.
Kalkara feels way less busy than the Three Cities and you will see no tourist groups like those around Birgu’s Parish Church St. Lawrenz. Instead, you will mostly come across locals fishing off the wall as you walk along the creek.
Fisher boats in Kalkara
The government recently spent €6.5 million fixing up the promenade. You can walk from Birgu’s to Kalkara’s peninsula tipping point without interruption and there are newly built steel benches everywhere.
The architecture of Kalkara’s buildings is very similar to the Three Cities. But unlike Birgu and Senglea, which are characterised by fortified limestone walls, Kalkara’s waterfront is mostly defined by traditional townhouses. Many balconies are very colourful and give the area a special charme.
Archbishop Gonzi Square
Continuing the walk along the waterfront of Kalkara, you reach the main square that is more or less the heart of Kalkara. The square is facing the iconic St. Joseph Parish Church.
Map of our walking route from Birgu to Kalkara’s peninsula
The original church stood a little closer to the marina, but a World War II air raid in 1942 destroyed it. The current church was built in a grand Neo-classical style and was finished in 1952.
The silver cupola can be spotted from far away, including the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens.
St. Joseph Parish Church
Right in front of the church they have left a classic red British telephone booth. I love this contrast of British tradition and Maltese religious architecture.
British phone booth at Archbishop Gonzi Square (Maltese: Misraħ l-Arċisqof Gonzi)
The square is a perfect place for a break. You have Sphinx Pastizzeria, a simple local coffee and snacks place. Here you can grab a fresh pastizzi (pea or ricotta cake) from only 70 cents! There is also Crema di Crema and Ta' Lixkat right next door, if you want to try Maltese food.
Kalkara Regatta
As you continue towards the tipping point of the peninsula, keep an eye out for a bright green gate with a distinctive yellow and blue logo. This is the Kalkara Regatta Club, founded in 1957.
The rowing Regatta is being taken very serious in the Grand Harbour and Kalkara Regatta has a lot of history. The club won the prestigious "Aggregate Shield" seven times.
Kalkara Regatta Club entrance
Even if there is no race going on, check out the tiny bar right here at the docks. It isn’t very fancy, but you can have a Cisk beer and sit by the water where the boat crews hang out.
Bighi Cot Lift
Towards the end of the marina you get to the Royal Naval Hospital Bighi (now the Esplora Science Centre). This building is the reason Malta was famously called "The Nurse of the Mediterranean".
Built in 1832, it was the British Navy’s main hospital for over a century, treating casualties from the Crimean War to World War II.
The historic Bighi Cot Lift
The iconic Bighi Cot Lift is an elevator built specifically to transport injured sailors directly from the ships in the harbour up to the hospital wards on the hill.
Today, it can take you up to the Esplora Science Centre which includes a little section that displays tools and medicines that were used in the hospital.
Villa Bighi
Next to the Esplora Science Centre is the beautiful Villa Bighi. Usually this building is closed to the public and used for government events or weddings.
I was lucky enough to be here on a charity Open Day recently, the Christmas Bakes Marathon, when volunteers offered christmas cakes and mulled wine to help raise funds for Maltese children in need.
Villa Bighi
The view from the back terrace is pretty different than from Kalkara Waterfront. You have the opening of Rinella Bay (Kalkara’s sandy beach) to your right and the Ricasoli East Breakwater just infront of you.
View from Villa Bighi terrace
If you need further tips on how to spend your day in Kalkara, write us on Instagram! Soon we are going to open our first accomodation near Kalkara Square.
Read here about “Our Top 5 Coffee Places in the Three Cities”
