Hiking from Blue Grotto to Għar Lapsi
Blue Grotto
Early spring in Malta offers the right climate to do a long hike over the weekend.
We walked from the Blue Grotto viewing point to the Ħaġar Qim temples and Għar Lapsi and finished our day in the quiet village square of Siġġiewi.
In short: Blue Grotto to Għar Lapsi
Is it worth the walk?
If you want iconic coastal arches and 6,000-year-old megalithic temples, absolutely.
Reality check:
There are no pavements between Ħaġar Qim and Għar Lapsi, meaning you have to walk on the main road facing traffic. Also, Għar Lapsi itself is currently undergoing storm restoration and the beach area is closed.
Blue Grotto
Blue Grotto viewing point towards the Wied Babu cliffs
Bus number 74 bus takes you from Valletta exactly to the Blue Grotto viewpoint. I usually try to arrive before 10am. This way I can enjoy the views with not too many tourists around.
The view is iconic. And I believe many people come to Malta because they had seen a poster or ad that displayed the arch.
The stop here feels a little incomplete if you don't walk down to the actual village of Wied iż-Żurrieq.
Coffee break at Step In
Scuba divers returning
Down in the village, I usually head straight to “Step In”. It is a restaurant at the end of the village. It is the only restaurant that has its terrace towards the bay exit. So you can see the boats leaving and returning.
I went on a sunny Sunday and only received a table that faced the rocks on the opposite side. Preference is given to the brunchers ;-) Still a wonderful environment with everyone at the terrace tanking sun.
After my cappuccino I went further down to the concrete platform and watched some of the scuba divers return to land.
Coastal path
Vintage van selling drinks between Hagar Qim and the Blue Grotto viewing point
You can now either wait for the bus to pick you up and drop you uphill at the view point again or you walk the steep slopes.
Once you are up on the main road, the trail continues along a wide pavement towards Ħaġar Qim.
You will see a lot of people walking this bit between the temple and the viewpoint.
I took a moment to sit down next to this light blue vintage van by “Alegor” selling drinks and snacks. I got curious and researched the model. It is a Bedford CA that was built by Vauxhall Motors between 1952 and 1969.
Ħaġar Qim
Soon I reached the Ħaġar Qim temple complex. The temple dates to the fourth millennium BC and is part of the group of Megalithic Temples of Malta recognised by UNESCO.
There is a small visitor centre and a pathway that leads down to the temple tent, the long protective canopy that keeps the stones safe from the weather.
Many of the carved stone fragments and decorated slabs have a lot of detail to them and make me wonder how humans have already been this creative 6,000 years ago. And on top of this, how were they even able to construct these temples with some of the rocks easily weighing a ton!
Road to Ghar Lapsi
From Ħaġar Qim onwards, the route becomes a bit more difficult. You have to continue on the actual road because the pavement ends :-( So watch out for the cars/mad drivers!
Street sign near the Hagar Qim entrance: To the left Blue Grotto, to the right Ghar Lapsi
At some point you can see the Hagar Qim temple from afar. It looks a little like a spaceship.
Hagar Qim temple from a distance
Blooming Lellux flowers with Filfla Island in the background
Vintage VW van
Għar Lapsi
Eventually, the road goes down towards Għar Lapsi, pretty steep actually.
Old school Mercedes with castle-like building in the background
Due to the damage caused by Storm Harry in January the site is closed unfortunately.
The damages from Storm Harry are still pretty visible, but the area is currently undergoing a €2 million regeneration project to be fixed. The plan is to restore safe access to the beach and rebuild the fishermen's slipway.
Ghar Lapsi currently being restored to its earlier state
