Hiking from Blue Grotto to Siġġiewi
Vintage camper van parked on the side of the road near Ghar Lapsi
Early spring in Malta offers the right climate to do a long hike over the weekend. The plan for this route is straightforward: Start at the Blue Grotto viewing point, follow the coast past the Ħaġar Qim temples, get down to Għar Lapsi and finish in the quiet village square of Siġġiewi. And let’s squeeze in a coffee stop or two along the way!
In short: The Southwest Coast Trail
The Route: Blue Grotto Viewpoint to Siġġiewi (via Ħaġar Qim and Għar Lapsi)
Difficulty: Easy at the start (paved walk to Ħaġar Qim), but gets hard later (steep inclines at Għar Lapsi)
Highlights: The iconic Blue Grotto arch and coastal views
Location: Malta's Southwestern coast
Important: There are no pavements between Ħaġar Qim and Għar Lapsi. You have to walk on the main road, so always face the oncoming traffic!
Route from the Blue Grotto viewing point to Siġġiewi
Blue Grotto
Blue Grotto viewing point towards the bay and cliffs
Taking the number 74 bus drops you exactly at the Blue Grotto viewpoint. It’s the easiest way to start this trail. If you arrive around 11 am, expect the area to be quite busy with people taking photos with the arch in the background. The view is iconic, but the stop here feels incomplete if you don't walk down to the actual village of Wied iż-Żurrieq.
Iconic Blue Grotto arch
Coffee break at Step In
Down in the village, I usually head straight to “Step In”). It is a restaurant right at the water. On a sunny Sunday, it gets crowded quickly, so getting a table with a direct sea view requires some luck. Even if you end up facing the rocks on the opposite side, the cappuccino and the break are worth it before starting the actual hike.
Hagar Qim
Vintage van selling drinks between Hagar Qim and the Blue Grotto viewing point
Walking back up to the main road, the trail continues along a wide pavement towards Ħaġar Qim. This first section is very relaxed and has a few benches along the way. You will see a lot of people just walking this short stretch between the temple and the viewpoint.
Keep an eye out for a light blue vintage van selling cold drinks. I took a moment to sit down next to a light blue vintage van by “Alegor” selling drinks and snacks. This Bedford CA model (in the photo) was built by Vauxhall Motors between 1952 and 1969.
When I reached the Ħaġar Qim temple complex, I just stopped at the entrance gate. I had already visited the temple properly some time ago (read our Ħaġar Qim wiki article).
Tourists entering the ancient Hagar Qim temple
Up to this point, the distances are very manageable for a walk. However, from Ħaġar Qim onwards, the route changes. You have to continue on the actual road because the pavement ends.
This is the part where the hike gets more demanding. If you are walking rather than trail running, make sure you have enough time and water for the remaining stretch to Siġġiewi.
Street sign near the Hagar Qim entrance indicating directions to the Blue Grotto viewing point and Ghar Lapsi
At some point you can see the Hagar Qim temple and its protective construction from afar.
Hagar Qim temple from a distance
Ghar Lapsi
Blooming Lellux flowers with Filfla Island in the background
Eventually, the road takes a steep dive down towards Għar Lapsi. On the way you will see a castle-like building just before entering Għar Lapsi.
Old school Mercedes with castle-like building in the background
Ghar Lapsi has always been a very popular place for divers and snorkelers. Due to the damage caused by Storm Harry in January the site is closed unfortunately.
The damages from Storm Harry are still pretty visible, but the area is currently undergoing a €2 million regeneration project to be fixed. The plan is to restore safe access to the beach and rebuild the fishermen's slipway while keeping the bay as authentic and simple as the locals requested.
Ghar Lapsi currently being restored to its earlier state
Running back up to the main road was tough as the winding roads down to Ghar Lapsi are extremely steep. On the way I passed by a classic, beige VW camper van that was parked on the side of the road. Watching the sunset from here with Filfla Island in the background must be great!
Siġġiewi
The last bit towards Siġġiewi came with a little local highlight. Just before reaching the village, there was this small stand on the roadside where people were selling their fruits and vegetables from Ghar Lapsi Farm.
They offered fresh Imqaret (date pastries) and as I got there some came just out of the fryer. Four Imqaret and an americano for only €3. We’re far off the tourist crowds here :-)
St. Nicholas Parish Church in Siggiewi
At some point you’ll get to Siġġiewi’s main square with St. Nicholas Parish Church in front of you. The entire trail was 11.6 kilometres of steep ups and downs.
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Author: Bjorn
