We Spent a Night in Birgu by Candlelight

Birgu townhouse decorated with candles

We went to Birgu Fest last night and it really felt like walking into an ancient and nostalgic world. Every October, Birgu (the oldest of the Three Cities) turns off its lights and puts on thousands of candles. Locals decorate their steps, balconies, windows and even living rooms.

Going to Birgu by Gondola

We left Valletta by gondola instead of the ferry as the queues were long. Everyone was dressed so nicely, our group on the gondola looked as if we went to a summer wedding. It was still warm and we had almost no wind.

Our gondola dropped us off at St. Angelo Mansions as the usual stop was congested. From here we walked along the Birgu waterfront towards St. Lawrence’s Collegiate Church.

Triq Il-Mina Kbira

Birgu house entrance with candles

Victoria Square and Alleys

We walked up the steps next to the church that lead up to Victory Square. The streets were packed and people were having dinner while live musicians played nearby.

In the square, a small concert was taking place and the entire Triq Il-Mina Kbira was decorated with candles that were hanging in the air.

From here, we went deeper into the alleys. The most beautiful ones were probably Il-Lbic, Triq Pacifiku Scicluna, Il-Kwartier and Triq Hilda Tabone.

Locals had opened their doors and windows and we could look inside their beautiful townhouses lit by candles. A few art galleries were open too and displayed Maltese paintings and crafts.

Nostalgic restaurant in Lbic

Alley decorated with candles

Ending the Evening

After exploring the alleys, we came back to Victory Square for a drink and enjoyed the music. We took loads of photos — every corner had something worth capturing.

We eventually walked back along the Birgu waterfront towards Cospicua and noticed that all buses were completely packed. So we called a Bolt near the American University to return home.

Interested in our favourite photography spots in Valletta?

Check out our blog “Walking Through the Secret Alleys of Valletta”

• When does Birgu Fest take place?

  Usually during the first or second weekend of October. Events start in the evening and continue late into the night.

• How do I get to Birgu Fest?

  You can take the ferry from Valletta to the Three Cities, but expect queues. Traditional gondolas also cross the Grand Harbour and are a beautiful alternative.

• Is there an entrance fee?

  No, the event is free. You can walk around the city, enjoy the atmosphere and buy food or drinks from local places.